Inflation, labor shortages… The context is not good for the restaurant industry. In Paris, as elsewhere, the price of formula soared and many establishments closed. However, the streets of the capital are pulsating. Original formulas are growing (Chic Pea, based on chickpeas; Club Pig, based on pork), institutions are reinventing themselves (La Coupole and its “Boulevard” menu at 19.50 euros), bistronomic restaurants are emerging supportive (Chez Ernest)… Here are ten hand-chosen addresses, generally responsible (French, seasonal products), affordable (menus around 25 euros, often less) and that put a smile on the plate.
Chickpeas, very rich in protein and fiber, are an essential part of the vegetarian diet praised for their nutritional qualities… But they are rarely highlighted for their taste benefits. He finally seems to have found his master (queux) in an alley of 14It is district: Tel Aviv native Nimrod Amzalak, former political science PhD student who swapped teaching for cooking. Having graduated from Ferrandi and working in the kitchens of Assaf Granit, in Balagan, at the age of 55 he single-handedly opened a micro-restaurant with bright yellow walls focusing on legumes.
You might think the map is redundant. This doesn’t happen thanks to a mix of French and Middle Eastern traditions that opens up new horizons in the dish with a formula at competitive prices (starter-main course: 19 euros). Here, warm and soft panisse (a Provençal specialty made with chickpea flour) is placed on a bed of labné (a type of thick yogurt) and topped with candied eggplant. For main courses, a thick bed of hummus holds golden falafels stuffed with chunks of raw chickpeas; chicken gizzards and thighs with caramelized onions; or (our favorite version), fried calamari topped with a devilish coriander and green pepper pesto.
The dessert is a little less convincing: a Bavarian cream flavored with cardamom, a little bland after the festivities that preceded it. But the boss has time to refine the proposal: the restaurant only opened this summer. Also note, homemade pitas, warm and tender, that make you want to soak until the end of the night!
Chic polka dots68, rue de l’Ouest, 14It is. Such. : 01-80-06-59-87.
At Ernest, supportive flavors
Do great ideas make good dishes? At Ernest’s house, yes. With its large room lit by a balcony, its flea market furniture, its ephemeral exhibits and its small theater stage, this Swiss army knife has the appearance of a cheerful village hall. But the heart of the establishment is the open kitchen, where small bistronomic dishes have been prepared since October with a focus on organic, seasonal and short-chain products, at reasonable prices (starter-course or main course-dessert at 16 euros). total 19 euros). It was Margaux Fary (former employee of the Parisian restaurant Le Coucou) who, at just 27 years old, achieved this small miracle. And with that, it shakes your taste buds.
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